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The
Pesky Flea
The ordinary cat flea is the leading cause of skin problems
in the dog. All dogs are effected except those living at higher
elevations. Fleas do not live above 5000 feet. They live year
round indoors.
Fleas survive by feeding on blood. In many dogs the bites
cause only a mild itch, but a heavy infestation can cause
severe anemia and even death. Fleas are also a intermediate
host of the dogs tapeworm. Some dogs experience a marked hypersensitivity
reaction to the saliva of the flea.
SIGNS:
Finding fleas on the dog or by seeing salt and pepper like,
black and white grains about the size of sand grains in the
coat. These particles are flea feces and flea eggs. Fecal
material is made up of digested blood. When brushed onto a
wet paper towel it turns a reddish brown. Look for fleas on
your dogs back and around the tail and hindquarters. They
are sometimes found on the groin. Itching is most severe in
theses areas.
The adult flea is a small dark brown insect that can be seen
with the naked eye. Fleas have powerful back legs and can
jump great distances. Fleas move very rapidly and are difficult
to catch, while ticks and lice move slowly and are easier
to pick off.
LIFE
CYCLE: Fleas need a warm humid environment in order to
flourish and reproduce. The higher the temperature and humidity,
the more efficient they become. Fleas mate on the skin of
the dog. The female can lay 2000 eggs in her lifetime. The
eggs fall off and incubate beneath furniture and in carpets,
cracks and bedding. In a few days the eggs hatch into larvae,
which feed on local debris. The larvae spin a cocoon and go
into a pupal stage. Adult fleas can appear then in 2 to 3
weeks. Or if temp. and humidity is not ideal they can remain
in the pupal stage for several months. After they hatch, fleas
search for a host. If one isn't found right away, they can
live for 4-12 months without eating.
At any time, only about 1% of the flea population is made
up of adult fleas, 99% remain in the invisible egg, larval
and pupal stages. Therefore to control fleas on your dog,
IT IS VERY IMPORTANT THAT YOU DESTROY
THE LARGE RESERVOIR OF FLEAS ON THE PREMISES. Precede
with both steps at the same time.
STEP
ONE: CONTROL OF FLEAS ON THE DOG
(a)
Mild fleas shampoos remove fleas but their effect is short
lasting
(b) Sprays are used most often. Water based sprays
are less expensive, but don't penetrate the coat as well
as alcohol based sprays. In general, sprays work best on
dogs with short coats. If using shampoos, powders, and sprays
they should be used once or twice a week.
(c) Insecticide dips are the most effective means
of ridding your dog of fleas. Even dips should be utilized
until your dog is rid of fleas. Before using any insecticide
preparation be sure to read the warning label on the container
to prevent toxic reactions.
(d) Systemic agents: Your veterinarian can supply
you with either oral or external drugs that enter the blood
stream and poison the flea when it takes the blood meal.
Some drugs kill the adult fleas immediately, while some
drugs may not kill the adult, instead it makes the eggs
laid by the female unhatchable.
(e) FLEA COLLARS AND MEDALLIONS: These aid in fleas
control but cannot be relied on to irradicate all fleas.
They must be changed every 2 months or when recommended
by the manufacturer. Occasionally a dog is found to be sensitive
to the chemicals in a flea collar and can develop an allergy.
FOLLOW PACKAGE DIRECTIONS CLOSELY:
STEP
TWO: Control of fleas on the premises.
With
a heavy flea infestation you may want to use the services
of a professional exterminator. THE
MOST IMPORTANT STEP IN THE INDOOR CONTROL OF FLEAS INVOLVES
A THROUGH CLEANING OF THE HOUSEHOLD.
Sprays and foggers can also be highly effective to prevent
maturation of larvae and pupae into adult fleas.
For outdoor control removing debris by mowing, raking, and
discarding of bedding and blankets helps. And dusting with
insecticide powder will help to control the pre-adult flea
stages.
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